Ariana de Leña - Kamayan Farm

Ariana de Leña established Kamayan Farm in 2017 with a focus on the convergence of culture and food. Located 25 miles east of Seattle, WA, on Snoqualmie people’s land, Kamayan Farm was named for Tagalog word “Kamayan” which is the communal practice of eating with our hands. The connection ourselves to food and land is of great importance, “I try to think of care holistically on the farm. That means that we work really hard to care for the soil by doing everything by hand, without chemicals, and seek to replenish the soil as we take from it. Care on the farm also means that we remind each other to stay hydrated, stretch, and take breaks when we need them. Incorporating ritual and thanking the land and my ancestors is also a part of the care I put into the farm.” Ari grows an array of vegetables and flowers on the farm, focusing on Asian heritage crops like bitter melon (ampalaya), long beans, and ginger. She works with community organizations like Rainier Beach Action Coalition (RBAC) and mutual aid efforts in the Seattle area helping to provide free or reduced cost food. “My goal has always been to make sure that people who want access to fresh, local, culturally-appropriate foods can get them regardless of income so these partnerships ensure that my produce gets to where it is needed,” explains Ari. Currently, Ari and Kamayan Farm is working with Second Generation Seeds in launching Seed Stewards, an 8-month virtual program that highlights a different heritage crop monthly. Kamayan Farm is an example of successfully joining vegetable farming with community organizations and education in cultural resilience.

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@kamayanfarm

Were you always interested in working with your hands, growing and farming, and when did you decide to open Kamayan Farm?
I've always been an artist and one of my favorite mediums is ceramics so you could say I've always loved working with my hands. As a child growing up in the suburbs, I wouldn't have guessed that I would end up farming. I did have a really special connection to nature and often sought refuge in the forests around my house. My interest in farming was really sparked in 2006 when I met some elders at a farm in South Central Los Angeles. Their wisdom and seed-keeping started me on a journey of exploration around food, equity, and sovereignty that eventually led me to establish Kamayan Farm in 2017.

What is the significance of the name "kamayan" in what you do?
I named the farm "Kamayan" as a nod to the cultural and communal practice of eating with our hands. It reminds me of big meals with my family and the joy that comes with eating in community. Eating with your hands is a super intimate and visceral act. It's a way to get closer to the food that we eat and to feel deep appreciation for it and that spirit is embedded in the work that I do and how I want to share it with people.

How do you practice care when farming?
I try to think of care holistically on the farm. That means that we work really hard to care for the soil by doing everything by hand, without chemicals, and seek to replenish the soil as we take from it. Care on the farm also means that we remind each other to stay hydrated, stretch, and take breaks when we need them. Incorporating ritual and thanking the land and my ancestors is also a part of the care I put into the farm. I usually start and end the season with a land offering - an event where myself and other community members can offer gratitude, song, poems, etc. to the land, the original people's of the land, and to our ancestors whose connection to land is the reason why we're here today.

What are some of the vegetables and plants you grow? And what is their importance to the farm?
I grow a wide array of flowers and vegetables, with a focus on Asian heritage crops. Some of the crops that are closest to my heart are bittermelon, long beans, mustard greens, and ginger. Ginger is particularly magical and takes a bit of work to grow in the Pacific Northwest. It's one of the most beautiful plants to pull out of the ground fresh and it's completely unlike the ginger you find in stores. I love walking through the fields and running my fingers through ginger greens for a really earthy, sweet smell.

How beautiful is the changing of seasons and the changing of crops on the farm?
Because I farm on a small scale, I am really conscious of using every square inch of the farm wisely. That means we are constantly harvesting plants once they've matured and sometimes replanting them that same day with a new crop. It's a beautiful cycle and always leaves me with gratitude for the crop that's finally ready to feed people and excited to watch the new plants grow.

One of my favorite things about farming is that my body has learned how to match the changing of the seasons. In the spring, there is a lot of excitement on the farm - baby plants are growing and the project list is long. That energy is matched by the days getting longer and, in the Pacific Northwest, the emergence of the sun mixed with lots of mercurial weather. Summer is go-go-go time and the action is pretty much non-stop. Summer is such an energizing time which can help get you through the long and hot days. Fall is a season I've really only come to appreciate since I started farming. By the time the leaves start to change and the mornings get chilly, all my body wants is rest. At the end of a long season, fall welcomes a turning inward and is a time of a lot of reflection for me. It's when I start taking stock of how things went that year, what I want to do differently the next go around, and when I most yearn for time to do non-farm projects. And then there is sweet, sweet winter! A time for rest and recovery, planning and dreaming. Every seasonal shift brings welcome additions on the farm.

Who are the community organizations you work with? and why?
I work with several community organizations such as Rainier Beach Action Coalition (RBAC), Uprooted and Rising Seattle, Farms for Life, and many different mutual aid efforts in the greater Seattle area. They are all organizations that provide food to their respective community members for free or at a reduced cost. They also allow me to funnel culturally appropriate foods to the people that will love and cook with them the most. My goal has always been to make sure that people who want access to fresh, local, culturally-appropriate foods can get them regardless of income so these partnerships ensure that my produce gets to where it is needed.

Who/what has been instrumental in your personal and creative growth?
My sister, Devon, has been one of the biggest drivers of my personal and creative growth. We're the youngest of five and grew up with a single mom and both had on-again off-again relationships with school. We spent a lot of time just the two of us in our formative years and developed a strong hustle and determination to see our projects through. We even had a puffy paint clothing business together when we were little and would try to hawk hats from the sidewalk in front of our house. In many ways, we're still creative partners and generally support each other with our respective projects.

Do you have any upcoming projects that you are excited to share?
I'm super excited to share more about my work with Second Generation Seeds, a collective of Asian seed growers. We've been working together for about a year now seeking to activate conversations and story telling around cultural food and seeds. This past year, we ran an Asian chili pepper trial on our respective farms and were able to get lots of great feedback from community members and local chefs. In 2021, we'll be launching Seed Stewards which is an 8-month virtual program highlighting a different heritage crop each month. We will have lots of engaging content for participants, including kids, so that we can weave together all of our food stories and histories and learn more about seed saving.

Photos courtesy of Ari de Lena
Profile photo by Audra Mulkern